The small and very colonial city of Remedios is located near Cuba’s center, a short distance from Santa Clara. The only town in Cuba with two churches on the plaza starts its Christmas celebration called Las Parrandas early in the morning of the 24th, with conga lines, drummers, dancers, and flares. Two barrios, San Salvador and Carmen, try to lure spectators into their fold by showing off the best displays of rhumba/conga, flags, costumes, lighted structures, floats, and fireworks. When I say fireworks, I mean thousands of locally produced skyrockets and mortar rounds.

This all takes place non-stop for 24 hours. In the end, one of the barrios claims the bragging rights until the following year, and the planning and preparation start as soon as the current year’s event ends. This festival is steeped in tradition that dates back to the era of slavery and sugar plantations. This was their day to celebrate, showcase their faith, culture, and pride. Thankfully, slavery and the plantations are gone, but the demonstration of local pride lives on with this celebration.

Join us for the three days preparing for the spectacle when the anticipation and excitement are palpable. Having access to behind-the-scenes, we will gain a genuine appreciation for the work and preparations before they are revealed to the public on the twenty-fourth. Comfortably lodged in private homes within two blocks of the city plaza, we will be able to come and go quickly and find respite to pace ourselves for the event. As the clean-up of ankle-deep spent rockets commences on Christmas Day, we will recover with the rest of the city with short forays to witness the transition back to normal.

A short distance away are the beaches of Cayo Bruja, excellent locations to recharge our bodies. For the final two days, we will explore nearby Caibarean, a historic sugar port that, for whatever reason, has a community of drag queens. Providing an entirely different kind of spectacle, we will have the opportunity to photograph their metamorphosis. Close by, Zueluetta will be finalizing their preparations for their festival of parradas on December 31st.

This adventure is limited to 4-6 participants, depending on whether you choose single or double occupancy in our lodging. The small group size is designed to ensure compatibility and safety. On the subject of safety: Since the COVID pandemic, this event has become significantly safer due to the involvement of the military, which has coordinated with the police to create a better environment by intervening before problems arise. Rum and fireworks will be involved. The authorities do a great job of thwarting potential issues without negatively impacting the event. We ask all our participants to wear long-sleeved clothing made out of cotton or, better yet, canvas and wide-brim hats. I wear eye protection. This is because I get close to the launches. How close you want to get is up to you and the authorities; we have permission to cross the line sometimes.

Most importantly, we work in small groups of two or three and look out for each other. Remember, these fireworks are homemade, and there is always the occasional errant one or two, as well as cinders and sparks that fall from above. I liken it to photographing sports, where one eye is for the viewfinder, and the other is scanning for danger. All of this said, it is absolutely one of the most exciting subjects I have ever photographed. Give yourself a Christmas you will never forget.

The trip, which spans seven nights and eight days, begins on December 21st and concludes on December 28th. The cost is $4200 per participant, which includes all transportation within Cuba, lodging, all breakfasts, 4-5 lunches, all dinners, and any event fees. Participants are responsible for their flights to and from Santa Clara, Cuba, arriving on Dec. 21 and departing on Dec. 28, 2024.

To sign up, please send an email to [email protected] stating which trip you are interested in joining. We will contact you with particulars and send you a registration form with details. We will tentatively hold your spot until we receive a deposit of $1500, and your place will be reserved.

This is a photo/project trip with open but limited enrollment.